Hello Boris (10/2/05)

Although I didn't consult my watch, it felt like I awoke every hour from 3:00 AM to 7:00 AM, at which time I threw in the towel and got up. I didn't have to stumble far to the bathroom. A single room at hotel Slisko has its bed one stride from the bathroom. As soon as I had the thought, I was beside the pot.

Though groggy and jet lagged, I am determined to end the old man hobble, so I rearranged the room some and "did" some yoga. By 9:00 AM, I’m downstairs flipping through magazines and waiting for Boris. A car drives up at 9:15, and out pops my cousin.

Basically strangers, we’re unsure how to great each other. After an awkward beat or two, we shake hands, both grinning. I expect only to share a cup of java and some stories, but he has other intentions. We spend the day together.

What a difference to have a local person as your guide, especially one so educated and thoughtful. Though Boris is a professor of mathematics, he studied other disciplines. As he shows me the sights -- old churches, museums, town squares, et al -- we delve into economics, political philosophy, Croatian and family history.

"I do not like religion", he says emphatically. "How can people not understand the manipulation?"

This was said after we observed what must be Croatia's approximation to the Israeli Wailing Wall. Annexed to some old church is a short tunnel of stone cubes, and along it and in front of carved out edifices to the Saints, people light candles and pray.