Mljet (10/12)

Ancient Greeks called the island “Meltia” or “honey” for the many bees buzzing in the lush forests (“lush” by Mediterranean standards). And forests are a plenty – over 72% of the island is covered by forests, the rest dotted by fields, vineyards, and small villages, the inhabitants of which produce wine, olive oil, medicinal herbs and fish. In 1960, the majority of the island was made a national park, bringing a steady stream of tourists to the island and raising the hackles of many of the peace-seeking islanders.

Photo: http://www.photocroatia.com/GALLERY/photo.php?photo=11549&u=879|0

Cash is not King here.

Just outside Mljet, we drop anchor, and I drop into the clear blue. It’s been raining a bit and the sky is congested with clouds, but swim I must. Once on the island, we hatch plans for renting scooters or bikes to explore the natural wonders the following day, before turning attention to the most serious of our decision-making – where to have dinner.

Without orchestration, having all departed the gulet individually or coupled, we nonetheless all find ourselves at a highly rated seafood restaurant two strides from the sea. Before the menus are absorbed, seeking to save ourselves from an overdose of wine, George and I separate from the pack and find a pizza parlor close to where the boat is docked. This is the first time on the journey that we two are alone.

I know a bit about this man from Mike’s tales. This stout, certain man likes to be a tad mysterious, telling me earlier with a grin that even his kids (now grown) didn’t know what he did for a living. It was real estate. Mortgage brokering, property appraisal, investing. His was a tough start: a father at 17, no money, divorce, estrangement; but a few good turns, hard and steady work, and a couple of decades later, at 48 or so, he retired. And now, at 60+ the man treated us all to this gulet, patiently counting the many one hundred dollar bills before departing Split -- pulled from a wad that would choke a dinosaur – carefully placing each on the other onto Hera’s wheel house dining table before the excited eyes of Francesco, and Dimar.

We ordered an extra pizza for the crew and return to the boat to eat there, only to discover that the crew was already eating pizza.