The third member of the crew is the irrepressible Ivan. This young man of 28 has stories with no end and strong opinions about everything, particularly Croatian political and historical issues. I learn a lot about what they call the “Homeland War” in the early 90s with the Serbs (principally), and what Ivan termed as Croatia’s feeble attempt to migrate from a state-owned to free enterprise economy. He is an apt representative of many young men of the islands: hard working, many having several jobs that shift with the seasons, they are well educated (even if just through high school), attentive, and yearn for a better future.

As the night wears on, the crew and I get silent till the only thing that flickers is one of four channels tuned and delivered by the small TV in the wheelhouse.